There are so many stories to tell of my journey through Africa and I will certainly tell them. Stories of healing and laughter, stories of hard leadership decisions and easy ones, stories of phoenixes rising out of the proverbial African ashes. And those stories will all come in time. However, the one that is my story to tell is the story of the Great Purse Caper of 2009.
The short version is that my purse was stolen out of my hotel room by the hotel’s security guard. After 14 short hours, some industrious neighbors returned it to me – contents in tact.
However, the actual story is much cooler.
I discovered the purse missing at around 9:45 on Friday night. We immediately notified the owner who notified the police. After much panicking and profanity on my part, we began to realize all of the contents of the purse and how its absence would dramatically affect our trip. All of our Malawian currency was in there. My passport and drivers license were both in there, along with my journal and the book I was reading. The most important, though, was that both of my digital cameras were in the bag – memory cards full of the photographs that I had taken so far. The loss of the camera was a palpable grief. Most of my personal responsibilities on this trip revolve around obtaining pictures for UPI’s use throughout the year and I was not sure what I was going to do for the remainder of the trip.
We made plans to head to the Embassy on Monday morning for a new passport and I called my mother to call my bank and cancel all of my cards. When the police arrived (six men pouring out of a truck carrying large guns – ie, things that would not happen in Waco), we answered their thorough questions. The owner (Hakim) and his manager (Fred) also both quickly got personally involved. The next three hours are a blur. Chichewa and English both flying around as we all tried to piece together the story. While Hakim stayed here to take care of things, Fred piled in the van with the police to go chase after the culprit.
(One of my favorite moments of that was when the largest policeman – around my age and with a large Uzi – put his hand on my shoulder and quietly said “My country is not like this.” I assured him that I didn’t believe it was.)
Around 1:45am, they reported back to us that they had been unable to find him. However, they assured us that as soon as the sun was up, they would begin again. They requested that we went to the police station as soon as it was open in order to give our statement. They assured us that my bag would be found. Skeptical but thankful for their intense involvement, we went to sleep around 2.
(Side Bar: During the evening, we all came up with our favorite theories as to what happened. They ranged from legitimate – like how the culprit probably used a wire hanger to jimmy open the lock – to the completely ridiculous. My absolute favorite ridiculous one involves a geiko who crawled into my room, morphed into a giant hippo who swallowed my purse and then morphed back into a geiko to escape. Thank you, Lindsey and Andy for that wonderment.)
Waking up again at 7 for the walk to the police station, my dad and I sat in the police headquarters for that section of Lilongwe and gave our story again. The captain of the Criminal Investigation Department assured me that they would get the bag back – if not by today then definitely by Monday when we were scheduled to leave Lilongwe for another part of Malawi.
We made it clear – over and over – that the camera was full of pictures of children who had been orphaned and we were trying to use the pictures to raise money to help them live. The policemen were all appalled that we – who were trying to help their country – had been violated by a fellow citizen. They thanked us for helping their children and resolved to return my belongings to me.
Upon arrival back at the hotel, we ran into Fred – who was still visibly angry at the events that had transpired. He vehemently told us that he would have my bag back to me today. “I know his father. If we cannot find him, we will squeeze his father until he locates him. I will not let you continue to suffer,” he told me over and over again. I thanked him over and over again for his involvement and his commitment to getting this taken care of and then went into the house to eat breakfast and get started with my day.
It was around 10:30 in the morning and I was in the midst of a meeting with Chikondi. Fred came to find me and summon me to up to the owner’s house. Hakim’s wife was standing there with a large grin on her face, pointing to my purse! “Is this yours?” She asked, almost giggling. I shrieked and ran, pulling open my purse to discover that everything that had been taken (besides our Malawian currency) was returned! The cameras, my passport, everything!
After jubilantly running back to the room where my team was and showing everyone that the prodigal purse had returned, we began to piece together the story of what had transpired.
Originally, Fred and Hakim had two suspects – the guard and a young boy who served as the cook. Upon locating the guard, Hakim insisted that the police throw him in jail for the evening and then the police took off to question the cook. When they did not find him, they notified his uncles that they were looking for the boy. The uncles then got involved – especially upon realizing that while the boy was not involved in the crime, he was also not where he was supposed to be. When they found out that he had gone out drinking, they immediately told Hakim to dock his pay until he had been sufficiently punished for his poor decisions. When they came to the hotel on Saturday morning to tell Hakim this, they also joined the search for the bag.
In the mean time, the guard was behind bars and his placement as prime suspect kept increasing as he kept changing his story. Fred then became convinced that the bag was near the property and – with the help of the cook’s uncles – began a thorough search for the bag. Upon locating it (buried under some brush behind a tree nearby) they returned it directly to me.
There are a few pretty amazing things to note in this story – besides the bag being miraculously returned. The bag was found simply because of the behavior of ordinary Malawians. Yes, the police were involved and helped in the big picture. The thief will be punished for his crime and they played their role in that. However, multiple people who had no obligation to help me whatsoever are the ones who gave up their time and their energy to search for the bag of this random mzungu.
Their involvement and dedication speaks to me intensely of the character of the Malawian people. They refer to their country as the “Warm Heart of Africa” and this incident only speaks to that. The staff of the hotel were grieved and angered by the incident and their decisions and actions honor me.
In a random side note – when my dad and I were in the police station to give our report, we were talking about the organizations here that we’re working with and how they help vulnerable children and those who had been orphaned. The chief’s response? Pointing to the others in the room, he quietly intoned, “We are all orphans”. More on that – and all matters involving realities in Malawi – in a later blog.